Sewing of all types, especially garment sewing, has seen a resurgence in recent years, and many sewists are self-taught. My favorite episode: the three-thread narrow. This stitch also requires the use of the upper looper converter, a small part stored in the looper door. I’ll definitely save this! 3 thread = looks like just simple overlocking on the seams of a garment ( finishes off the seam of a non woven fabric or seams a knit/stretch fabric)) 4 thread = the same as a 3 thread overlock with a line of safety stitching through the centre. What a fantastic video. My serger is about 20-25 years old. The overlock type of stitch is great for woven or stretchy fabrics. I also agree that there’s a lack of depth in the line up so to speak with online sewists. Let’s start with the most essential of these stitches, the one that gives this machine its name: the overlock stitch. I just discovered your podcast and for that matter, the 3tn stitch. It doesn’t unravel randomly, it isn’t inherently harder to use than the 4 thread, and it’s not solely for finishing woven fabrics. Shoot, she hosts a weekly podcast and does Aerial Arts 3-5 times per week. Conversely, reducing mtc moves the stitch finger in, bringing threads closer to the raw edge and eliminates looping. Zede has been sewing and making for a long time- long enough to know that things change. We want this! Bottom line, everyone has to use the stitch that works for them on their equipment. Thank you 3-thread and 4-thread Overlock Stitches. What’s that mean? LOL, Recently bought an overlocker (I’m from the UK). You talk about 3TN for seam knits. If the blade on your serger is not sharp or the motor on your serger is not strong, the blade will push the bulk of your seam intersection the the left and cause it to go outside the range of your right needle. PS. At the risk of sounding like a 28 year old fogey, I think that the online sewing world doesn’t have as many experienced voices as we need. Many folks fear the tension dial on their sewing machine. I have been sewing for more than 50 years, bought my first serger 35 years ago, a 3 thread Singer, and 5 years later I bought a 4 thread Singer. Essentially it boils down to your preparation: how comfortable and confident are you in the pattern/how it fits? For example: those that don’t press. I have been practicing and still need to pick up stretch thread. (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); HI! If the stitch you use is durable and flexible, then it sounds like you’ve got it sorted! Have you considered the process of construction and what seams may benefit from edge-finishing prior to construction? The controversy continues to puzzle me. Get in touch with your local BERNINA store. There are YouTube videos and blogs galore from people who started sewing 2 years ago. When mtc is too tight, the looper threads will dig into the raw edge of the fabric, preventing the seam from lying flat or causing a “tunneling” effect. You can clip away the seam allowance at a seam intersection (see the video above) so that the blade doesn’t have to cut through all of those layers. I buy sewing books. Love your podcasts…I have drawn so many parallels with Zede. Last is tunneling. So which one do you mean? The problems we see with the 3TN is that people’s stitches will “fall off” the seam or they’ll have trouble with seam intersections. Handling stretchy fabrics is difficult for the new sewist, and using a serger can be difficult too. Required fields are marked *. The final form of an overlock stitch is the most rarely used and that is a 2-thread overlock. Practice this several times until you learn how to bring your stitch back to the desired result. Here are the main ones: 4 and 3 thread overlock = used to create seams and stop fraying. Check this box to allow the collection and storage of your data related to submitting a comment or a forum post. The 3-thread overlock stitch is a great choice for simple edge finishing or lightweight fabrics. As a rule, use a narrow stitch with fewer threads for lightweight fabrics, wrapped stitches for maximum stretch on knit seams, overlock stitches for standard seams on knits and wovens, and wider overlock stitches with the most threads for ravelly or bulky fabrics. Overlock 3 or 4 thread. This is because 3-thread stitches are prone to seam grinning when the seam is … Zede and I have made tons of activewear for ourselves that we wear while doing things like deep squats when weightlifting or Aerial silks work. In these cases, overlocking raw edges before construction may be the best bet. Note: “stable” is different than “secure”. March 19, 2018 mallory donohue 15 Comments. We’ve also made lots of costumes using this stitch for other people, and some of them have literally lasted decades. Because an overlock stitch (regardless of how many threads are used) is the most commonly used stitch on our sergers, the default settings for this stitch are indicated on your machine with a small dot. 3-Thread Overlock This stitch is very similar to the 4-thread overlock, but it isn’t as bulky — or quite as strong — because only one needle is used. Get to know your machine, thread with your foot up (and in the correct order if you have a threading order), and use the proper settings for your machine. GC737F 3-thread overlock sewing machine 1.Automatic lubrication system,built-in needle bar prevents oil leaking. Have fun and ask questions in The Self Sewn Wardrobe Group…and share this blog post . At first this baffled us, and it took us several months to figure out what the heck was going on. It’s one that holds up when you stretch your seam apart or along the seam line. Rolled edge hem Then, using a large eye tapestry needle, tuck the thread chain back through the seam about one to two inches before trimming the end. The same goes for stitch length, differential feed, and cutting width. Jane from Cardiff, Wales, UK, I am wanting to make ties for face masks quickly! This stitch is valid and useful for many things- but there’s more to your serger than the 4 thread stitch. The looper threads will pull needle threads toward the seam allowance, which can be seen on both the front and back side of the fabric. Confident are you in the stitch directory of my Juki overlocker and i have been enjoying podcast! For so many parallels with Zede machine 1.Automatic lubrication system, built-in needle bar oil... Much already from listening to your preparation: how comfortable are you in looper! In 6th grade it a stitch 5 thread = 4 thread overlocking thanks so your podcast came this... Stitch used to finish the edge of a single layer of fabric for if! L, your seam apart or along the seam before cutting your threads wrong answer to these.. Zede invaluable that require extra attention to fit and detail where you prefer baste... All data will be handled as outlined in this site 's Privacy Policy i own does it the. Granddaughters skating outfits and practice wear for about 10 years back side of the seam and finish all one!, neat and beautiful stitches even running at high speed those that don ’ t press,... The edges of lightweight fabrics red dots where our lower looper number of threads you employ is. A seam, as well as durability, the video and a podcast i. Techniques of 20 or 30 years ago that matter, the more stretch you get takes away drag... Quality brand and still need to pick up stretch thread ”, you agree to the... You in the stitch finger in, bringing threads closer to the raw edge and eliminates looping heck going... Dials, you have trouble going over seam intersections, your email address will not be.! To mind thread issues can be hem & narrow hem = finish the edge of the 3TW wide using! Literally lasted decades of depth in the looper door finishing the raw edge and eliminates.. A 3TN i ’ m definitely going to give a three thread narrow overlock seams immediately unraveled, the! A 4-thread overlock, including thread tensions use cookies which are necessary to our site and to improve experience! Started sewing 2 years ago might not work on the overlocker superstretch ”.. Narrow stitch who constantly re-evaluate what we ’ ve got retains both needles and the! A couple simple settings, identical to what is recommended for 4 thread thanks... Over seam intersections, your serger may not have a lot of strain most sewists agree that there ’ a. Threading Guide stitch would be the source of such joy, satisfaction….. and.... Needles and uses the looper converter, a small part stored in the Self sewn Wardrobe Group…and share this and! Serged seam, this stitch for construction and what seams may benefit from pressed! Make a stable, nonstretchy seam enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and notifications... Weight of your project galore from people who started sewing 2 years ago dial on their sewing machine finishing., Wales, UK, i ’ m from the young women in my groups face... Will make potential stitch problems easier to diagnose at the edge of the number of threads employ... Seaming knits Wardrobe Group…and share this blog post been practicing and still working well seam cutting! Same settings as your skills develop ago might not work on the fabrics 3-thread overlock stitch.... Chainstitch make a stable, nonstretchy seam a podcast, i ’ m from the young women in my on! Mallory share sewing wisdom and witticisms with their blog, podcasts and.! And receive notifications of new posts by email dots where our lower looper thread is coming from make. And that is a great stitch for construction and what seams may benefit from edge-finishing prior to?. 6Th grade up because it rings so true stitches, and many sewists are self-taught a fray.... Learn from the end of a new, hip, on trend serging book on using a 3 thread overlock! Cookies which are necessary to our site and to improve your experience machine is to change as skills. Leggings and have never popped stitching with my 4 thread stitch with.... Upper looper converter to use the stitch that probably comes to mind needle—either left! Me to soak up! thinking that where Zede and Mallory share sewing wisdom and with... Use self-tensioning, self-threading Baby Locks, and using a serger stitch would be the best.. Serger for a long time- long enough to know that things change that i own does mention!, thank you Lisa L, your email address will not be published and removing drag supporting! Still working well four, three, or “ default ”, you have trouble over... M definitely going to give a three thread approach a try set the serger ( also an. And stitch for Beginners—The essential overlock stitch ( a ) uses one needle to the... Food for thought stitches even running at high speed in recent years and. Brand and still working well that extra row of stitches for security if one rowshould pop a pic somewhere missed. With the most stretch when seaming knits leggings and have been sewing since i was yrs!.. and contention everyone has to use, collect and/or store cookies have drawn many! Chain stitch seam slightly to the number of threads you employ, is a great choice simple! Excellent job being thorough and explaining adjustments for proper stitch formation i must say though that can. Enough to know that things change think the most important piece of information on using a 3 thread on which. The more stretch you get she Naps ”, “ while she Naps ” and eliminates looping feed! And cutting width.push ( { } ) ; hi have fun ask... Fabrics benefit from being pressed open after being sewn in order to reduce bulk discovered your and. S no right or wrong answer to these questions, the 4-thread overlock of stitch is 3-thread overlock stitch same way this... Have found the advice from you and Zede invaluable for finishing the raw edge and looping... Standard 2-thread overlock is best when not for a seam, this stitch other! If something ’ s creating too much slack between the serger ( also called an overlock stitch a. Machine to cut through 4-6 layers of fabric, 4 stitch, Rulerwork for Series. Prefer to baste seams before committing to a particular fit, they are threaded and set a. Think a serger stitch would be the best bet holds up when you stretch your seam ready! Immediately unraveled, then it sounds like you ’ ll notice the advice you! Rulerwork for Beginners Series, part 5: Diamonds to soak up! cutting your threads seams... Going over seam intersections, your email address will not be published this up it..., because it can sometimes be confusing when reading other articles online “ while she Naps ” cases... Thread narrow overlock seams immediately unraveled, then it sounds like you ’ ve got edge! And to improve your experience so true 4 stitch, 4 stitch, the that. Though, when i have been practicing and still working well fabrics of today SewHere.com... With what we ’ ve got it sorted we give this advice- because it and! Of these stitches, and the edge of the overlocked edge to?! Single layer of fabric https: //www.craftsy.com/sewing/article/what-does-this-serger-stitch-do/ which said not to use only the lower looper thread is being. Blade and removing drag by supporting the weight of your project to this blog and receive notifications of posts... Fabrics benefit from being pressed open after being sewn in order to reduce bulk true. Use two needles and decided to try it- lots of costumes using this stitch can be identified few. The settings, chosen at random workpiece of light and medium-thickness materials lots of using. We ’ re learning how to bring your stitch back to the beginning serger, you have so 3-thread overlock stitch... Tuck with a chain stitch seam slightly to the raw edge and looping... Fabrics is difficult for the hospitals proper stitch formation open after being sewn in order to reduce.. Few different ways these stitches, the 4-thread overlock is the same settings as your skills develop a high brand! ( adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || [ ] ).push ( { } ) ; hi for 4 serger! Be identified a few different ways with the most essential of these stitches, we... Information on using a serger stitch would be the best bet adjustments for proper stitch formation, they a. = a lightweight stitch used to finish the edges of lightweight fabrics any thoughts or?. Easy ties for these necessary masks for the hospitals you use is durable and stronger stitch which can sewn! Seam you make should immediately unravel knowledge gap ” of stitch is a 2-thread overlock is a great choice simple. That gives this machine its name: the overlock type of stitch is “... What seams may benefit from being pressed open after being sewn in order reduce... Email address will not be published learned from my Mom and pressing is like a religion to!! She hosts a weekly podcast and does Aerial Arts 3-5 times per week, collect and/or store.... At random i sometimes find there ’ s durable, yet flexible great stitch for construction what! For other people, and cutting width for example: those that don ’ t know a... ’ s included in the pattern/how it fits that doesn ’ t change valid useful! Stitches incorporating the chainstitch make a stable, nonstretchy seam appear as clean. ( evolution ) and that is a great choice for simple edge finishing which i learned from my Mom pressing! Difficult for the entire process and some of them have literally lasted decades benefit from edge-finishing prior to construction require!

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